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SOLENNE
The grill cook in a white apron beside the charcoal

Emre started on the grill at seventeen, in his uncle’s shop two streets from here, and spent nine years being told he was standing too far back from the fire.

This place opened with one grill, four tables and a queue that formed because the bread was coming out of the oven where everyone could see it. Nothing about that has changed except the number of tables.

The kitchen is six people. Two of them do nothing but bread and sauces, every morning, before the charcoal is lit.

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A cook turning skewers over the coals during service